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First, let me say sorry that this post took me so long to do! Â I kept on meaning to get it done, but since it is a bit involved, it too longer to do.
Second, I’m breaking up the “putting it all together” into two separate posts. Â The first one (this one) will focus more on changing setting to get the depth of field you want. Â The next one will deal more with capturing motion.
Now, onto the post!
So, if you’ve been following along with these posts, great! Â I hope it’s helped you understand manual mode a bit better. Â If not check out parts, one, two, three, and four. Â We are now going to be putting everything together that I’ve talked about!
So, to start off with I want to talk to you all about the “exposure triangle”.
Basically, the exposure triangle shows you the three variables that go into creating a “perfectly exposed” picture. I have that in quotes since perfect may be different for each person. For example, when taking pictures of my girls I like lots of background blur, but others may want pictures where everything is in focus. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, right? 😉
No mater if you want blur or not, these three variables are important.  Once again, if you are unsure of  what I mean by shutter speed, aperture, or ISO, go back to my previous lessons (it’s alright that I call them lessons, right? I’d like to think I’ve taught you all something ;)) and read up.  In these I’ve shown you how changing one variable (i.e. changing the aperture to make more or less of the picture in focus). can affect the photo.
**Note:  All of my pictures were taken with my Canon 50mm fixed lens, which, at its widest has an aperture of 1.8.  It appears this one is being discontinued.  I think this one is comparable.
What I didn’t show you, was that I also had to change another variable (or two) in order for the picture to turn out.
For example, take these two pictures.
The first one has a wide depth of field, the second a narrow.
So, let’s take a look at how I got from the first to second picture.
Picture one:
f 1.8
shutter speed 1/1000
ISO: 100
In this picture, there is a wide depth of field. Â Just the grapes are in focus, and everything else is blurry. Â If I wanted the whole picture to be in focus I know I have to change the aperture, to create a narrow depth of field. Â So let’s do that.
Picture Two:
f 22
shutter speed 1/1000
ISO: 100
I only changed the aperture, and the picture turned out black.
Why is that?
At an aperture of 22, the lens opening is very small. With a fast shutter speed, not enough light reached the sensor to properly expose the picture. So we have to change the shutter speed as well.
Picture Three:
f 22
shutter speed 1/6
ISO: 100
Now, the picture is exposed pretty nicely, but, it’s blurry. The shutter speed is to slow for me to get an in focus picture without using a tripod.
Now what can I do?
You guessed it. Change the ISO!
Picture Four (final picture):
f 22
shutter speed 1/25
ISO: 400
So, by changing the ISO, I was able to bump the shutter speed up fast enough to get an in focus picture.
Let’s look at another series of photos to show how the shutter speed and aperture work together:
Picture one:
f 1.8
shutter speed 1/500
ISO:100
Once again we start with a picture with a wide depth of field. Â Notice how only the stamen of the flower are really in focus. Â So we have to change the aperture to get more of the picture in focus.
Picture two:
f 13
shutter speed: 1/30
ISO: 100
Now, the picture is in focus. but it’s still a bit dark, so we have to change the shutter speed.
Picture three
f 13
shutter speed: 1/10
ISO:100
In the final picture, we have a narrow depth of field and properly exposed picture.
So, I hope this shows you how the different variables work together, and that changing one of them usually means you have to change the other.
I know it seems like a lot to do, but once you practice it becomes second nature.  So get your camera out, set it on manual, and practice changing the settings.  The more you practice the easier it becomes. 🙂